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Can’t Hold It In – Mexico pt. V

January 24, 2012

Sunday 22 January – I sleep, I dream


Track: The House of the Rising Sun, The Animals


Sleeping with one eye open really isn’t working for me. I am trying to pull the right arm closing eye trick but it just doesn’t feel right and I can’t get comfortable.

I am awake. I have no idea what time it is. The sun comes up very quickly here so it could be anything from 2am onwards.

I have had the strangest dreams which include a whole section of a former colleague (Andy K) and me devising an interpretive dance sequence around the ramparts of an old fishing village. Perhaps these drugs do have some interesting qualities after all…..

It is 5am and I give up. I may as well get up and do something other than lie here and achieve nothing. I sit at the computer and catch up with the blog.

I am plugged in listening to some music. Miros has come in with a really rather worried face. “where is Derek?!” – I don’t know…..

He is sitting on the floor of the pantry. Doing nothing, just sitting “looking for Mama”. Crisis over the coffee is on and we plot the rest of the day.

Derek is very keen to go and play on the beach. I am looking forward to some nice grilled fish.

We head off to Kino. I have been warned in advance that there is nothing there – just a road with a couple of restaurants and stalls selling tat. This is where the locals come to party. It is a long beach on the Gulf of California. We spend some time looking at the beach front houses that if they were a few miles up the road on the US side would cost somewhere in the region of $2 million. Here they cost $200,000. There is a 5 bedroom house whose front garden is the beach and is about 30m from the sea, and has a separate apartment that is going for $210,000. The property market here has crashed. Particularly when the apartment in the holiday weeks of Christmas, and particularly, Easter will fetch rent in the region of $5-6,000. Kino is in the middle of nowhere and that is its charm. There is nothing here – they weren’t joking. There is a business here I think that caters for the young, rich US university set coming down for gap year or post exam parties…  This site might just be a bit too remote, but there are dozens of sites like this up and down this stretch of coast.

The time to be here is in the evening as the sunsets are spectacular and the dolphins come out to play. The Californian Baha is far enough away that you look out to open sea. We have come early, in time for lunch, as travel on Mexican roads when it gets dark is not the safest course of action. The roads are long and arrow straight which can mean that a) it is a bit of a drag race and b) drink driving is extremely common and c) if anything did happen you are stranded in the middle of nowhere. You also have the problem of not being able to see any obstructions or craters in the road surfaces (which are not uncommon) that could send you flying into the verge. City driving in Hermosillo is even worse apparently. So we have come for lunch which is fine by me.

Fantastic fish. With garlic. I finish my three fillets and polish off Derek’s left over chicken. I am constantly hungry. I don’t know if it is the drugs, no carbs or what, but I can’t stop thinking about and searching out food. Telling myself that I can’t be hungry is not working for me.

We spend a really nice forty minutes playing on the beach and taking some pics. The weather is fantastic, it is hot but the wind off the sea is pretty brisk and cools everything down. In a month’s time it will be baking. The beach is virtually deserted; there are a few groups on this section but probably no more than a dozen people.

We get back home for late afternoon just as the sun is in its final throes.

I am fiercely tired. It has been a good day.


Monday 23 January – Recovery


Track: Spinning Away, Brian Eno and John Cale


I am really tired today. I slept much better than last night; I took my meds and was out almost immediately. I would like to do something today but not sure I can muster the energy.

Sometimes I convince myself that my face is getting much better and almost back to normal and then something comes along and catches me out. I was feeling things were progressing well and I was coming out of this; I take a mouthful of coffee and my mouth can’t cope. It leaks everywhere as I try to swallow. If nothing else it is bloody funny.

Spending today watching the GOP rip each other to shreds. I can’t figure out if they actually believe the things they are saying or whether it is just for the crowd. To a man they are peddling untruths about the state of the country and the economy – I mean factually wrong. No shades of grey. Just wrong. Does the average American have such a short memory that they cannot remember George W. Bush?

Seriously thinking about coming back in November so that I can watch the general election from this side of the Atlantic. This probably makes me a bit of a nerd.

Aside from coming back over to watch the election it would be nice to give Mexico another chance. Events have rather got in the way this time round and so I have not seen or done as much as I would have liked but what I have seen has been really interesting. I don’t suppose the drug war will have come any kind of conclusion between now and November so some of the trips I would really like to do might still be out of the question; I would really like to do the Copper Canyon train but it is in the heart of drug land. Stats that were released yesterday put the death (read murder) toll at 47,500 in the last three years alone and Miros says we are not going anywhere near there at the moment so that will have to wait for a bit. Just to re-enforce the point, coming home yesterday there was a road block. Twenty Federal Police (they looked more like Special Forces) complete with balaclavas and M16s pulling over cars.

Tomorrow is my last full day in Mexico before heading back up to the US. We will probably stay in Tucson overnight Wednesday and get into Phoenix at a sensible time on Thursday so that I can do some shopping if I need/ want to before my flight back. I have just upgraded to Premium Economy for the return flight. It was only £150 and is probably worth it.

Settling in for the Florida debate tonight. I have got a chicken and broccoli stir fry on the go which is in desperate need of some soy sauce and/ or some nam pla but a) we haven’t got any and b) even if we did not sure I am allowed it. Miros has managed to find some ginger so all is not lost.

 Stir fry done. Sit down. TV on.

We don’t have that channel.


From → On Holiday

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